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Curtain walls: Why 50% of leaks happen here.

October 28, 2026

curtain walls are responsible for nearly half of building leaks, making them one of the most critical areas in façade design and construction. Their vulnerability comes from complex joints, inadequate sealants, poor installation practices, and drainage systems that fail to redirect water effectively. Even minor defects can allow moisture to penetrate, causing interior damage, mold, corrosion, and expensive repairs. Reducing these risks requires thoughtful design, durable and compatible materials, precise installation, and rigorous quality control, including inspections and water testing. By addressing potential failure points early, project teams can significantly improve waterproofing performance, extend façade service life, and prevent costly building damage.



Curtain Walls: Why Half of All Leaks Start Here



When a building develops water stains near windows, many people look at the glass first. That is often the wrong place to begin.

Curtain walls cover large areas of a building envelope. They include glass panels, metal frames, gaskets, sealants, pressure plates, drainage paths, anchors, and connections to slabs or adjacent walls. A small weakness at any one of these points can allow water to move behind the visible surface.

The phrase “half of all leaks start here” should not be treated as a universal statistic. Leak rates depend on the building design, climate, installation quality, maintenance history, and testing process. The message behind the phrase is still useful: curtain wall systems deserve close attention when a building has recurring water problems.

Why curtain walls often become leak sources

A curtain wall has many joints. Each joint creates a place where materials meet and move.

Glass expands and contracts. Aluminum frames respond to temperature changes. Sealants age at different rates. The structure may shift slightly under wind, settlement, or thermal movement. If the system cannot manage these changes, gaps may form around the edges.

Water does not always enter at the location where the stain appears. It can travel along a frame, move through a cavity, follow a slab edge, or collect above a ceiling. A leak beside a window may begin several feet away.

I treat the visible stain as a clue rather than proof of the entry point.

Common curtain wall leak points

1. Perimeter sealant

The seal between the curtain wall and the surrounding wall is a frequent inspection area. Cracks, shrinkage, poor adhesion, and gaps at corners can allow water to pass through.

A sealant joint may look intact from the ground while failing behind a trim piece. Close inspection should check both the surface and the bond between the sealant and the adjoining materials.

2. Splices between frame sections

Curtain wall frames are assembled from multiple sections. Splice joints must control water and allow movement. A damaged gasket or poorly sealed splice can redirect water into the wall cavity.

These joints can be hard to see after interior finishes are installed.

3. Pressure plates and covers

Many curtain wall systems use pressure plates, fasteners, and snap-on covers to hold glass in place. Missing fasteners, loose components, damaged gaskets, or blocked drainage openings can affect the system’s performance.

A cover may appear secure while the gasket behind it has lost contact.

4. Glass-to-frame seals

The seal around each glass panel needs consistent contact. Distortion, gaps, aged rubber, and poor installation can create narrow paths for water.

Small defects matter because wind pressure can push rain toward the frame instead of letting it run down the exterior.

5. Weep holes and drainage channels

Curtain walls are designed to manage some water inside the framing system. That water must have a path to exit.

Blocked weep holes, debris, paint, insects, or sealant can stop drainage. Water may then build up inside the frame and appear indoors at a lower level.

6. Connections to roofs, slabs, and adjacent walls

The most difficult leaks often occur where different systems meet. A curtain wall may connect to a roof membrane, masonry wall, metal panel, concrete slab edge, or window system.

Each material has its own movement and installation details. A weak transition can allow water to bypass otherwise sound curtain wall components.

How I investigate a curtain wall leak

I avoid replacing sealant across an entire elevation before locating the entry path. That approach can hide the cause, increase the repair area, and make later testing harder.

My inspection process usually follows these steps.

Step 1: Record the interior symptoms

I note the exact location of staining, bubbling paint, damp insulation, corrosion, or damaged ceiling materials. I also record when the leak appears.

Does it happen during wind-driven rain? Does it continue after rainfall stops? Does it occur only when rain comes from one direction? These details can narrow the search area.

Step 2: Review the exterior condition

I inspect the curtain wall from the exterior, using safe access equipment and a close visual check. I look for open joints, failed sealant, damaged gaskets, cracked glass, missing covers, blocked drainage holes, and signs of past repairs.

Photos help compare conditions across elevations.

Step 3: Study the system details

Drawings, product information, previous repair records, and installation documents can show how the curtain wall was meant to drain.

A repair team needs to understand the system before removing components. Sealing the wrong opening may block a designed drainage route.

Step 4: Test small areas

Controlled water testing can help identify the entry point. I prefer testing one section at a time, starting near the lower-risk exterior area and moving toward more complex joints.

A hose test is not the same as wind-driven rain. Water volume, spray direction, pressure, and test duration affect the result. A test should match the suspected failure and follow a clear record.

Step 5: Open concealed areas when needed

If exterior inspection and water testing do not provide enough evidence, limited opening may be required. Removing a small interior finish or exterior cover can reveal wet insulation, corrosion, failed flashing, or an unsealed joint.

Opening work should be planned carefully. Random removal can create new damage without answering the main question.

Step 6: Repair the cause and test again

The repair may involve replacing sealant, restoring a gasket, clearing a drainage path, repairing flashing, securing a pressure plate, or correcting a transition detail.

After the work, I recommend retesting the repaired area. A dry surface immediately after repair does not prove that the leak path has been removed.

A practical example

I once reviewed a recurring leak near the corner of an office window. The interior stain appeared below the curtain wall, so the maintenance team had resealed the visible joint several times.

The stain returned during heavy rain.

A closer inspection showed that the water was entering at a frame splice above the stained area. The drainage path inside the frame was also partly blocked. Water moved downward inside the assembly before reaching the interior finish.

The repair did not require replacing the whole window wall. The team restored the splice seal, cleared the drainage opening, replaced a damaged gasket, and tested the section again. The key improvement came from tracing the water path instead of treating the stain as the source.

Repairs that may not solve the problem

Applying new sealant over old, loose sealant can leave a gap underneath.

Sealing every visible opening can block drainage.

Replacing interior drywall without correcting the exterior allows hidden moisture to remain.

Using a general repair detail on a curtain wall with a different drainage design can create a new failure point.

A repair should match the original system or include a carefully reviewed modification. Compatibility matters when selecting sealants, gaskets, membranes, primers, and cleaning methods.

What building owners can do

I suggest keeping a simple leak log with:

  • Date and weather conditions
  • Wind direction, when known
  • Interior location of the water
  • Photos before cleanup
  • Exterior elevation and floor level
  • Previous repair locations
  • Test results and repair materials

Routine inspections can also identify early signs such as cracked sealant, loose covers, staining below joints, blocked weep holes, and corrosion near frame connections.

Maintenance teams should avoid drilling, painting, or sealing curtain wall components without checking the system design. A small change can affect how water drains through the frame.

The main lesson

Curtain wall leaks are rarely solved well by treating only the visible stain. The water may enter at a joint, travel through the frame, and appear at another location.

The “half of all leaks” claim is better used as a reminder than as a fixed rule. Curtain walls contain many interfaces, and those interfaces deserve careful inspection when moisture problems appear.

I start with evidence, trace the water path, test a limited area, and repair the specific failure. That method costs more thought at the beginning, yet it can prevent repeated sealant work and help protect the interior structure from long-term moisture damage.


Leaking Curtain Walls? Here’s What’s Really Going On


A leaking curtain wall can make a small rain problem look like a major building defect. Water may appear at the glass, travel along a mullion, stain the ceiling, or collect near the floor. The visible drip is often not the point where water enters.

I have seen many owners focus on the interior stain and replace the damaged finish. That may improve the appearance for a short time, but it does not address the path taken by the water.

The better approach is to trace the leak from the inside out.

Why curtain walls leak

Curtain wall systems depend on several parts working together:

  • Glass and glazing gaskets
  • Silicone seals
  • Horizontal and vertical mullions
  • Pressure plates and caps
  • Splices and end dams
  • Weep holes and drainage channels
  • Perimeter seals around the building frame
  • Flashing at transitions and changes in materials

Water can enter through a failed seal, move inside the framing, and come out several feet away. Wind pressure can push rain into small openings that remain dry during light showers.

Common causes include:

Damaged or aged sealant

Exterior sealant can lose adhesion, crack, shrink, or separate from the frame. This often happens at corners, joints, and areas where different materials meet.

A seal may look intact from the ground while holding a small gap behind the surface. A close inspection is needed to check whether it still bonds to both sides of the joint.

Blocked drainage paths

Curtain walls are designed to collect and drain water. Weep holes can become blocked by dirt, insects, old sealant, or debris from nearby work.

When drainage is restricted, water may remain inside the frame and find a way into the building.

Failed glazing seals

The seal around a glass panel may break down with age or movement. Some failures lead to direct water entry. Others cause fogging between insulated glass panes, which is a different issue from a frame leak.

Replacing the glass may be suitable when the insulated unit has failed. It will not solve a blocked sill track or failed perimeter seal.

Loose or damaged components

Pressure plates, fasteners, gaskets, and covers can shift after building movement, impact, or previous repairs. A loose component may leave a path for wind-driven rain.

Perimeter and transition joints

Curtain walls connect with roofs, concrete slabs, windows, metal panels, and masonry. These transition areas often receive less attention than the glass itself.

A leak near the base of a wall may come from the joint between the curtain wall and the foundation edge. A leak near the top may relate to the roof or parapet rather than the curtain wall panel.

What I check before arranging repairs

I begin with the pattern of the leak.

Does water appear only during heavy rain? Does it happen when wind comes from one direction? Is it worse near a corner, an upper floor, or a roof connection? Does the leak continue after the rain stops?

These details help narrow the search.

I also record:

  • The interior location of the water
  • The date and weather conditions
  • Photos before cleanup
  • Nearby stains, bubbling paint, or damaged ceiling tiles
  • Any recent façade, roof, window, or interior work
  • Previous repair locations
  • Whether the building has experienced movement or impact

A simple leak log can reveal a pattern that is easy to miss during a single inspection.

A practical inspection process

1. Inspect the interior

The inspection should include the wall, ceiling, floor, window covering, and nearby finishes. Moisture may travel along a slab edge or framing member before it becomes visible.

A moisture meter can help identify wet materials, though readings need to be compared with dry areas of the same construction. One reading should not be treated as proof of the entry point.

2. Inspect the exterior

Look for open joints, cracked sealant, missing gaskets, damaged caps, blocked weeps, staining, and signs of movement.

The inspection should cover the area above and beside the leak. Water often enters higher than the interior damage suggests.

3. Review past work

A repair history can explain repeated leaks. For example, if only the visible joint was sealed during an earlier visit, water may still be entering through a nearby splice or perimeter connection.

4. Use controlled water testing

A controlled test applies water to selected areas in stages. The tester starts with a lower section and moves upward, allowing time between areas to observe the result.

This is more useful than spraying the whole façade at once. Broad spraying can flood several possible entry points and make the result difficult to read.

Testing should follow a written method. The location, duration, water flow, and observed response should be recorded.

5. Open selected areas when needed

Some leaks cannot be confirmed from the exterior surface. A small, planned opening may be needed to inspect hidden flashing, end dams, drainage paths, or sealant bonds.

The opening should be agreed upon in advance, with a plan for temporary protection and proper reinstatement.

Repair options depend on the cause

A small, localized sealant failure may need joint preparation and replacement sealant. The old material should be removed carefully, the surfaces cleaned, and the new sealant installed according to the product instructions.

A blocked weep may require cleaning rather than sealing. Weep holes should remain open so collected water can exit the system.

A damaged gasket may need replacement with a compatible profile. Using an unsuitable material can create gaps or interfere with drainage.

A failed glass unit may require replacement of the insulated glass panel. The surrounding frame should still be checked because glass replacement alone does not repair every curtain wall leak.

Perimeter failures may call for new flashing, backer material, or a redesigned seal at the connection. This work often requires coordination with the roof or wall contractor.

A common example

A building manager once described water appearing at the base of an office window after storms. The interior stain was below a vertical mullion, so the first repair focused on that joint.

The leak returned during wind-driven rain.

A broader inspection found that water was entering at an upper splice, moving inside the framing, and draining toward the lower section. A blocked weep made the problem worse. Cleaning the drainage path and repairing the affected splice addressed the source more directly than adding sealant to the interior stain.

The lesson is simple: the location of the damage may show where water ended up, not where it entered.

When professional testing makes sense

Professional help is useful when:

  • The leak returns after a surface repair
  • Water appears in several locations
  • The source is near a roof or wall transition
  • The building is several stories high
  • Interior finishes or electrical equipment may be affected
  • The curtain wall has complex geometry
  • The repair requires access equipment
  • A warranty or project record is involved

A contractor should explain the proposed test and repair before work begins. Ask what area will be tested, how results will be recorded, and how the repair will be checked afterward.

What to avoid

Do not seal every visible joint without understanding the drainage design. A curtain wall needs controlled paths for water to leave the system.

Do not rely on interior caulk as the main repair. It may hide the symptom while moisture remains inside the wall.

Do not pressure-wash the façade as a leak test. Excessive water pressure can create conditions that do not match normal rain and may damage seals.

Do not remove drainage components without a plan to restore them. Blocking a weep can turn a small leak into a trapped-water problem.

Do not delay attention to wet insulation, ceiling materials, or electrical areas. The right response depends on the extent of moisture and the materials involved.

How to reduce repeat leaks

Routine façade checks can identify small defects before they become interior damage. Pay attention to joints, corners, splices, weeps, gaskets, and connections with other wall systems.

Keep repair records with photos, test results, product details, and dates. A clear record helps the next inspector understand what has already been changed.

I also recommend treating leak repair as a diagnosis task rather than a sealing task. The goal is not to cover the most visible gap. The goal is to understand how water enters, moves, and exits the curtain wall.

When the source is confirmed, the repair becomes easier to select and easier to verify. A clean, controlled investigation usually saves more time than repeated patching at the location where the stain first appeared.


Stop Curtain Wall Leaks Before They Become Costly



A curtain wall leak rarely stays a small problem.

Water may enter through a failed seal, an open joint, damaged flashing, or a blocked drainage path. At the start, you may only notice a damp mark near a window. Later, the moisture can reach insulation, interior finishes, electrical areas, and occupied spaces.

I have found that the cost often grows because the visible stain is treated instead of the entry point. A proper inspection looks at the full wall assembly.

Signs that a curtain wall may be leaking

Watch for signs such as:

  • Water stains below windows or at slab edges
  • Damp carpet, drywall, or ceiling panels
  • Peeling paint or soft interior finishes
  • Musty smells near the building perimeter
  • Water appearing after wind-driven rain
  • Drips near mullion joints or corner conditions
  • Sealant that is cracked, detached, or shrinking
  • Fogging between insulated glass panes

A leak may appear several feet away from the actual entry point. Water can travel along horizontal framing, insulation, or floor edges before it becomes visible.

Start with a focused inspection

I begin by recording where the water appears, when it appears, and what weather conditions are present.

Rain from one direction may expose a different weakness than rain with strong wind. A leak that appears only after heavy rainfall may point to drainage or pressure-related problems. A leak that occurs during light rain may be linked to an open joint or damaged seal.

The inspection should cover:

  1. Exterior sealant joints
  2. Glass-to-frame seals
  3. Mullion intersections
  4. Pressure plates and caps
  5. Splice joints
  6. Corners and transitions
  7. Perimeter conditions around doors and roofs
  8. Weep holes and drainage paths
  9. Areas near balconies, slabs, and attached signs

Photos, marked elevations, and moisture readings help create a useful record. This information makes it easier to compare conditions after repairs.

Do not seal over the visible stain

Applying new sealant around the interior stain may hide the symptom for a short period. It may not stop the water.

A better approach is to trace the moisture path. The exterior joint above the stain may be the entry point. The leak may also come from a higher mullion splice or from a blocked weep opening.

I prefer targeted testing over random repairs. Water testing can be performed on selected sections, with each area tested separately. This method helps show which joint or component allows water to pass.

Testing should be controlled. Excessive water pressure can create conditions that do not match normal rain. The goal is to identify the failure without adding another source of moisture.

Check the sealant before replacing it

Sealant failure is common, but the repair method depends on the condition of the joint.

Look for:

  • Cracks through the sealant
  • Separation from glass, metal, or stone
  • Air gaps at corners
  • Shrinkage at joint intersections
  • Hard, brittle material
  • Poor adhesion caused by dirt or moisture
  • Sealant applied over old failed material

A proper reseal usually requires removal of loose or failed sealant, cleaning, drying, and preparation of the joint. The new material must be suitable for the surrounding substrates. Product instructions and compatibility guidance should be followed.

A new bead placed over dirt or loose material can fail again. The finish may look clean while the joint remains weak.

Review the curtain wall drainage system

Curtain walls are designed to manage water, not rely on every exterior seal being perfect.

Water that enters the outer layer should be directed toward drainage openings and discharged outside. Blocked weep holes, misplaced gaskets, debris, and incorrect pressure plate installation can interrupt this path.

During an inspection, I check whether:

  • Weep holes are open
  • Gaskets are seated correctly
  • Drainage channels contain debris
  • Horizontal members hold standing water
  • End dams are present where required
  • Caps and pressure plates are properly fitted

Cleaning a blocked opening may solve the problem in one location. A missing or damaged component may require a more careful repair.

Pay attention to transitions

Many recurring leaks happen where systems meet.

Common transition areas include:

  • Curtain wall and roof edges
  • Curtain wall and masonry
  • Window frames and wall panels
  • Balcony slabs and perimeter seals
  • Doors connected to curtain wall framing
  • Parapets, copings, and metal flashings
  • Expansion joints between different materials

These locations move at different rates. A rigid repair may crack when the building materials expand, contract, or shift.

The repair needs to account for movement, joint width, drainage, and material compatibility. A small detail at a transition can affect a large section of the wall.

Use a repair plan that matches the cause

A useful repair plan should state:

  • The suspected entry point
  • The evidence supporting that finding
  • The affected wall area
  • The repair method
  • The materials required
  • Access needs and safety controls
  • Testing after the repair
  • Photos and records for future maintenance

Some leaks need localized sealant repair. Others call for gasket replacement, pressure plate correction, drainage cleaning, flashing work, or replacement of damaged components.

If the framing or glass system has repeated failures, a wider assessment may be needed. Repeating small repairs without reviewing the pattern can increase cost and leave the main issue unresolved.

Test the repair after the work

A repair should not be judged by appearance alone.

After the material has cured as required, the repaired area can be tested under controlled conditions. The testing method should match the suspected failure and the building system.

I also recommend checking the interior after the next period of wet weather. Moisture readings, photos, and notes can show whether the area remains dry.

A clear record helps the owner decide whether the repair solved one isolated defect or revealed a wider system issue.

A practical example

On a mid-rise office building, water appeared at the interior side of a window during wind-driven rain. The first repair added sealant around the interior trim, but the stain returned.

A later inspection found a failed joint at a horizontal mullion several feet above the visible damage. Water entered there, moved inside the framing, and appeared lower on the wall. After the failed joint was removed and repaired, the drainage openings were cleaned and the section was tested again.

The interior stain had been the symptom. The upper frame joint was the cause.

Build a maintenance routine

Curtain wall inspections do not need to wait for an active leak.

A maintenance routine can include:

  • Visual checks of exterior joints
  • Review of interior moisture reports
  • Cleaning of drainage openings
  • Inspection after major storms
  • Checks around new signs, equipment, and attachments
  • Tracking of repeated leak locations
  • Periodic review of repaired areas

Keep photos with dates and location references. A simple wall elevation marked with repair areas can show patterns that are easy to miss in separate work orders.

Protect the building before damage spreads

A small leak deserves a clear diagnosis, not a quick cover-up. Early inspection can help reduce damage to finishes and building components, while also giving the owner better information for planning repairs.

When I review a curtain wall leak, I focus on the water path, the drainage design, the condition of the joints, and the details where systems connect. That approach creates a repair plan based on evidence rather than guesswork.


The Hidden Reason Curtain Walls Leak So Often



A curtain wall can look sealed from the outside and still allow water into the building. The glass may be intact. The aluminum frames may appear straight. Yet moisture can enter through a small break in the system’s drainage path, a poorly sealed joint, or a connection that cannot handle building movement.

This is why curtain wall leaks often return after a simple sealant repair. The visible stain is usually not the real entry point.

I have found that the hidden cause is often a loss of continuity. A curtain wall is not one solid barrier. It is a system made of glass, framing, gaskets, pressure plates, splices, anchors, corner joints, flashings, and drainage openings. Each part has a role. When one part is installed out of sequence or connected poorly, water can travel behind the finished surface.

The most common hidden causes

A curtain wall normally uses several layers of protection. The outer seal limits direct water entry. The pressure-equalized cavity gives water a controlled path. Weep holes and internal channels move that water back outside.

A leak appears when one of these paths is blocked or interrupted.

Typical causes include:

  • Blocked or missing weep holes
  • Gaskets cut too short at corners
  • Poorly sealed mullion splices
  • Incorrect pressure plate installation
  • Sealant applied to a drainage opening
  • Gaps between curtain wall frames and adjacent walls
  • Incomplete end dams at sill conditions
  • Fasteners that damage internal seals
  • Movement between the building structure and the curtain wall
  • Glass settings that place pressure on the frame

The problem may start at one location and appear several meters away. Aluminum frames can carry water sideways. Insulation, concrete, and interior finishes can also spread moisture before it becomes visible.

Why sealant repairs often fail

When a leak appears, many teams apply new sealant around the exterior joint. This may reduce the water for a short period, but it does not always address the entry path.

For example, a leak below a window may come from:

  • A failed corner gasket above the window
  • A blocked sill drain
  • A mullion splice behind the cover
  • A joint between the curtain wall and the concrete edge
  • A missing flashing connection

If the repair covers only the visible crack, water may find another route. The stain can disappear during dry weather and return during wind-driven rain.

I prefer to treat sealant as one part of the repair, not the full diagnosis. The first task is to understand how the curtain wall was designed to drain.

A practical inspection method

I usually inspect the system from the outside and inside before testing it.

  1. Map the leak area

Record the interior stain, paint damage, odor, and moisture level. Mark the location on a floor plan or elevation drawing. Note whether the leak appears during light rain, heavy rain, or wind from a particular direction.

The pattern matters. Water at a vertical joint suggests a different cause from water at the bottom of a sill or near a corner.

  1. Check the interior finish

Remove a small section of trim or access the perimeter where suitable. Look for wet insulation, corroded fasteners, darkened concrete, and water trails.

A single drop on the interior may come from a larger wet area behind the wall.

  1. Inspect drainage openings

Check sill weeps, pressure plate openings, baffles, and end dams. A small amount of debris can stop the designed drainage path. Mortar, sealant, paint, and insulation are common obstructions.

Do not seal a weep hole just because it looks like an unwanted gap. It may be a planned outlet for water.

  1. Review frame connections

Look at mullion splices, transoms, corners, and transitions to doors or solid wall sections. These areas combine several materials and often need special seals or gaskets.

A splice that looks closed from the outside may still have an open internal channel.

  1. Test in small sections

A controlled water test is more useful when the test area is limited. Start at the lower section and move upward in small stages. Keep the water flow and duration consistent.

Testing the entire elevation at once can create several wet areas and make the source harder to identify.

  1. Compare the work with the drawings

Shop drawings and installation details can reveal missing components. Pay close attention to:

  • Sill pans
  • End dams
  • Corner conditions
  • Mullion splice sleeves
  • Transition membranes
  • Perimeter fire and air seals
  • Fastener locations
  • Drainage paths

A field condition may not match the approved detail. That difference can explain a leak that appears only after the building experiences several seasons of movement.

A common project example

On a mid-rise office project, water appeared near the fourth-floor window line after strong rain. The exterior sealant looked intact, so the first repair added another sealant bead.

The leak returned.

A small test then showed that water entered at a mullion splice several bays away. The splice sleeve had been installed, but its internal seal was incomplete. Water moved through the mullion channel and exited at a lower opening near the reported stain.

The final repair included opening the affected section, correcting the splice seal, clearing the sill drainage path, and replacing damaged interior insulation. The visible stain had been at the window base, but the entry point was higher and hidden behind the frame cover.

This type of failure is common because curtain wall water does not always travel in a straight line.

How installation quality affects performance

A well-designed curtain wall can still leak when installation steps are rushed or changed in the field.

Small details can affect the full system:

  • A gasket that is stretched may shrink later.
  • A corner that is cut without the required seal may open during movement.
  • A screw placed through the wrong location may damage a drainage channel.
  • A perimeter joint may be sealed before the frame is aligned.
  • A panel may be forced into place, creating pressure on the glass or gaskets.

The installation sequence matters. Drainage components should remain open and accessible until the related inspection is complete. Field changes should be recorded instead of covered by finishes.

How to reduce future leaks

I recommend a simple quality process for new and existing curtain walls:

  • Review high-risk details before installation.
  • Inspect corners, splices, sills, and transitions early.
  • Photograph concealed seals before they are covered.
  • Keep weep openings free from sealant and debris.
  • Test representative areas before interior finishes are installed.
  • Use the same test method when checking a repair.
  • Track repeated leaks by elevation, orientation, and weather condition.
  • Repair damaged interior materials after the water source is controlled.

A good inspection focuses on system behavior, not only on visible cracks.

Curtain wall leaks are often blamed on glass, weather, or old sealant. Those may play a role, but the deeper issue is usually a broken connection between water control layers. When drainage, pressure balance, movement joints, and perimeter seals work together, the wall has a clear way to manage rain.

When they do not, water finds the gap that the eye cannot see.

We has extensive experience in Industry Field. Contact us for professional advice:Wei Hongxing: 495817263@qq.com/WhatsApp +8613861689197.


References


  1. American Architectural Manufacturers Association 2015 Quality Assurance and Diagnostic Water Leakage Field Check of Installed Storefronts Curtain Walls and Sloped Glazing Systems

  2. ASTM International 2015 Standard Test Method for Field Determination of Water Penetration of Installed Exterior Windows Skylights Doors and Curtain Walls by Uniform or Cyclic Static Air Pressure Difference

  3. Centre for Window and Cladding Technology 2014 Standard for Water-Tightness of Curtain Walling

  4. National Glass Association 2019 Glazing Manual for Commercial and Architectural Glass Applications

  5. Building Enclosure Technology and Environment Council 2016 Best Practices for the Design and Installation of Exterior Wall Systems

  6. American Society of Civil Engineers 2022 Building Envelope Design Principles and Water Management Practices

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